Monday, April 5th, 2010

At Gandhi’s Place

Durban, South Africa

It took two police escort cars with two officers in each to bring myself and three South African born folks, Vaishnava, Janaki and Mahavir, to Satyagraha. This very unique place holds some significance to the world. It is the settlement started by Mohandas Gandhi in 1904. In 1985 the settlement was destroyed by Apartheid Violence but since then has been rebuilt as a symbol of freedom. It was here that Gandhi started a school, a printing press and homes for those who followed in the line of self sustainability.

As most may know, he was thrown out of the train in Pietermeritzburg, a city nearby, an experience which fuelled his cause towards equality and respect. Gandhi witnessed oppression on the indentured labourers. He spent 21 years with his wife, Kausturba, in this modest place on top a hill as part of a one hundred acre plot. The area surrounding has become an unsafe area of depressed dwellings (for the escorts).

I was moved by the vintage photos from the time of struggle which lead to inspiration., The texts that inspired him were The Ramayana, The Gita, The Bible, and The Koran. It was in one of the rooms that we stood where he lead prayer. One prayer which he wrote is also on display. When he decided to leave for India, one of his four sons remained in Satyagraha where his home is also a feature of this well preserved property.

Our interpreter was a local Zulu man, very respectful, who took his shoes off upon seeing us and offered his pranams (folded palms). He was highly informative and a pleasure to listen to. He inquired from me about the essence of the Gita. I was surprised that we were the only tourists or pilgrims at this peaceful place. A different kind of peace was found at the Chariot Festival site once again. I was asked to sing in the place of one of our monks who wasn’t feeling physically up to it. On the stage came our young men, anyone with a drum, trumpet or flute. And to everyone’s pleasure and surprise also on board came a troupe of tribal dancers wearing skins and all. This last evening of the festival called a second chariot ride so those on stage were given the queue to go in procession.

The dancers and I forged ahead to the beginning of the crowd. And while they are so much more agile than I and much younger they let me take the lead to moving the body. Of all there in the crowd the dancers chanted with the greatest volume and conviction. It was a great display of ahimsa, of non-violence. Our guru, Srila Prabhupada wrote to Gandhi in his last year before Gandhi was assassinated. There was never a response, but the contents of the letter recommended kirtan (chanting) as a way to address social strife.

Well, here, we were doing it and thanks to the organizers of a well attended Chariot Festival.

5 KM