A Premier Pilgrim’s Spot
Tirumala, India
He said it like it was a mantra, repetitiously. “See the Swami! See the Swami! See the…”
It was one of the pandas (priests) repeating these words in reference to us, the pilgrims, viewing Balaji, a self-manifested Visnu form who stands sternly at His shrine. His white marking is iconic – bold and beautiful, and perhaps overdone. The explanation is that the white paste covering His eyes is because He is not prone to see the evil of man in this world. A similar white marking at the chin represents remedial herbs applied because once, when manifested as a young man, a furious fellow hurled an iron rod at His chin which left an injury.
The place is Tirumala, which translates as “the mountain of the abode of Laxmi (the Goddess of Fortune).” And the big attraction at the mountain’s peak is Balaji Himself who draws a bigger crowd and more funds than the Vatican. Each day, faithful people contribute collectively crores of rupees as donations.
The place is fascinating. Myself and peers, mostly my monk brothers and sisters from North America and Europe had the viewing of Balaji at which time, we also did a tight circumambulation around this temple, followed by a trek on a more wide angled path. Incidentally on this path was a beautiful dance formation of young men who routinely stepped in circular fashion around a zealous drummer’s beat. The dancers held a shaker to make sound in the right hand, and a red cloth which they’d flick at a particular rhythmic beat in their left hand.
All the while that we were on the grounds there, there was an audible mantra recorded. It was in praise of Balaji: “Om namo venkatesvarayah.” The reciprocation for visiting with your voluntary donation is a bowling ball-sized sweet called laddu. This I will save for the monks in the ashram back in Toronto. It will be the sure proof that I did some serious pilgrimage at this unique place in South India.
May the Source be with you!
4 KM
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